Cooling Our Heels In Coffs Harbour

Current Position: 30°18’272”S and 153°08’624”E. At anchor, Coffs Harbour, NSW, Australia

Seasonal Greetings to all our families, friends, and innertube surfers.

Our sleep banks are pretty much back in balance, the wet and salty laundry taken care of, the interior of the boat mostly dry. I am pleased to report that the starboard side lockers were not especially wet inside as I had feared, although I still had to empty them all to ascertain that fact. The port lockers about the same as usual: some are always dry, some always accumulate a little water.

Moe has effected a permanent repair to the steering cable: to wit, we have a new one from our ship’s store of spare parts (cabled cable) and the nicro-press swages from the nearby chandlery.

The next stage of the boat importation process has been undertaken: engagement of a customs broker and clearance to leave Coffs Harbour. We will continue/complete importation after we get to Sydney.

Moe has been very carefully studying the weather forecasts and we are trying to pin point our departure south. At this time of year, the general weather pattern is wind from the north east, very brief lull, then strong winds from the south. Remember, we want to get to Sydney, not get on the news.

And as a reminder that the Pacific Ocean is not yet quite done with us, the dinghy went AWOL last night when we were over visiting with another recently arrived boat: imagine the collective dismay when we went to get into Wringhy (Dinghy) and found only a bit of the painter (the bit of rope that you tie your dinghy to something else), the wind from the west ie straight out to sea. Multiple curses all ’round, including our hosts who then launched their dinghy to take me home whilst the 2 captains, ever the optimists, went for a look in the darkness. About 20 minutes later they returned: by happy twist of fate, the wind had blown Wringhy into the marina rather than out to sea. It was wedged, snug as a bug, between 2 other boats, so snug that it was only seen on the 2nd pass by. So, no need for us to purchase lottery tickets, finding Wringhy was as good as winning the lottery.

In other news, Coffs Harbour is a most delightful place, full of happy people, pleased as punch to live here. We have enjoyed the benefits of a well stocked supermarket, the fisherman’s co-op, and the Galley Cafe from where this post is uploaded.

There are many walks along the coast which forms the western boundary of the Solitary Islands Marine Park, and around the Coffs Creek nature reserve. We will not be here long enough to explore all of them, however have managed to experience some.

Muttonbird Island is one of the islands that are included in the Solitary Islands Marine Park. It is just off the coast of Coffs Harbour (originally named Korffs Harbour). Way before the arrival of Europeans, this area was Gumbaynggirr Country, and Muttonbird Island was sacred to the Gumbaynggirr Aboriginal Nation. They called it Giidany Miirlarl, ‘moon special place.’ Muttonbird eggs were harvested, however not too excess: tribal law prohibited this.

The popular name muttonbird is more properly known as a Wedge-tailed Shearwater, Puffinus pacificus, a seagull sized pelagic bird that uses the island as a rookery from August to May in between the long annual migration to the Phillipines and back…now there’s a trip. Muttonbird Island Nature Reserve is now linked to land, which has made the birds vulnerable to rats, mice, foxes, dogs and feral cats. The birds dig a burrow to create their nest, where a solo egg is laid, making egg and/or chick, and parents very easy pickings. Apparently, the bird tastes just like mutton, hence the old name [Florida readers: What does alligator taste like? It tastes like chicken! I guess it depends on what you mostly eat, and presumably during the early days of European occupation, mutton was frequently on the menu.]

Muttonbird Island became linked to the mainland following the construction of a breakwall from 1915-1924. It gave a bit more protection to the jetty that had been constructed some years earlier. A further break wall was constructed in 1939. Even with the 2 breakwalls, it is still rolly out here in the anchorage. A marina for the local fishermen and recreational boaters provides good protection from the ocean swells. Probably after the arrival of the railway, the coastal steamers became obsolete and the jetty is now used for recreational purposes only.

During the years of the Great Depression, hungry local people made regular expeditions to Muttonbird Island during nesting season. Burrows were raided and trampled…times wuz tuff.

These days, the summit of Muttonbird Island offers a wonderful view up and down the coast and out to sea. There is a path that leads up and over the island: all you have to do is stay on it. At this time of year, the nesting burrows are easily spotted.

Here’s some photos from Muttonbird Island.

View over Coffs Harbour Marina and Jetty from the top of Muttonbird Island

The entrance to the nesting burrow for a pair of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters

Ladybug, Muttonbird Island

Looks like a perfect place to land a canoe…oops, sorry, we’re no longer in Polynesia

Around town there are various bits of art, such as this one:

Whale Tail by Evi Koller

Anyone for a weaving workshop? Pandanus tree on Solitary Islands Coastal Walk footpath, Coffs Harbour

Is it a stilt or is it a moorhen? Wading bird drying its feet on the grass, Coffs Harbour

Just think how solitary the islands are: this is part of the local beach

Magpie lark (peewee) considers its options for dinner: sea food or grubs?

Coffs Creek is mangrove lined and bordered by a spiffy walking/cycling trail. The Creek is v. popular with kayakers and fisherfolk, the trail with humans and their dogs, cyclists, and wanderers with cameras. Here’s some of the things that live in the forest.

Most of the plants had finished flowering. Luckily this yellow flowering shrub was not one of them.

It’s fabulous!

Now that’s what I’d call a strangler vine.

Bark biodiversity 1, name that tree

Bark biodiversity 2…almost finished shedding

Bark biodiversity 3, scribbles and ants

Bark biodiversity, 4

Bark biodiversity, 5

Eventually the bugs win

Currawong sniffin’ the breeze

Koo-koo-koo-koo-kookabura sitting in an old gum tree

All the ducks are sitting by the water, lalalalalalaa (it’s an old song)

Officialy, it’s a Noisy Miner, but I’ll call it an Angry Miner instead

Juvenile magpie and parent

Playing hide’n’seek with the other parent

Mangrove lined branch of Coffs Creek

‘Traces,’ by Suzanne Nehl, Coffs Creek Land Art Trail

Willie wagtail waits for late lunch, picnic table, Coffs Creek

Galah feeding late afternoon, Coffs Harbour

That’s about all we’ve got time for for now. We wish all our readers Seasons Greetings for whatever celebration you observe. It is On! On! to Sydney

Margaret and Moe